Monday, 23 April 2012

Stresemann black lounge morning coat

It is often said that the black lounge morning coat (worn in place of the frock coat or the pleated tailcoat) dates from its adoption by German politician Gustav Stresemann at the signing of the Locarno Pact in 1925 (admitting Germany to the League of Nations). However, a cartoon, by David Low shows Chamberlain (centre) and Stresemann (right) in frock coats, while French representative Aristide Briand (left) is in a morning coat:

Moreover, this photograph, from 1885, shows H Rider Haggard in a black coat and lighter trousers, which were commonly worn before dittoes (matching suits) became all the rage:


  1. Non matching is always a good idea: even with things like the 'evening frock coat', ie. white tie tailcoat, the correct, non-matching breeches of stockinet fabric are sanctioned by no less an authority than Book 1 of our own N.J.S.. For diplomatic uniform midnight blue tailcoats, black evening dress trousers are asked for in the Dress Worn at Court, and so on.

  2. Stresemann wore a frock coat as well as a Stresemann during the event.
    Unfortunately, this 1885 picture does not tell us what colors this outfit consisted of. As such, I think it is not quite enough evidence to support the claim.

    1. My point is just that wearing matching coats and vests on the hand and lighter trousers, on the other, much predates Stresemann in 1925.